Topical retinoids
TR · tretinoin · adapalene · tazarotene · trifarotene · isotretinoin (topical)
Topical retinoids are vitamin-A derivatives that bind nuclear retinoic-acid receptors (RAR-α, β, γ) and retinoid X receptors (RXR), modulating gene transcription for keratinisation, differentiation and inflammation. UK-licensed agents include tretinoin (Retin-A), adapalene (Differin), tazarotene (Zorac) and trifarotene (Aklief). Indications span acne vulgaris, photoaging, actinic keratosis, plaque psoriasis, hyperpigmentation and lentigo maligna adjunct. Skin-oncology relevance: field cancerisation strategy, photoaging management, post-Mohs scarring optimisation and EGFRi / chemotherapy hand-foot care.
Mechanism
- Bind nuclear retinoic-acid receptors (RAR-α, β, γ) and retinoid X receptors (RXR).
- Effects:
- Promote epidermal cell turnover and differentiation.
- Normalise follicular hyperkeratinisation (anti-comedonal).
- Anti-inflammatory.
- Stimulate collagen synthesis; reverse some photoaging.
- Inhibit melanosome transfer → reduce hyperpigmentation.
- Apoptosis / differentiation in dysplastic keratinocytes — rationale for AK / field cancerisation.
- Selectivity: adapalene and trifarotene more RAR-γ-selective (skin) → better tolerated; tretinoin and tazarotene pan-RAR.
Agents
| Agent | Receptor | UK licensed indications |
|---|---|---|
| Tretinoin 0.01-0.1% | Pan-RAR | Acne, photoaging (Retin-A, Retin-A Micro). |
| Adapalene 0.1-0.3% | RAR-β/γ | Acne (Differin; Epiduo with BPO). |
| Tazarotene 0.05-0.1% | RAR-β/γ | Plaque psoriasis (Zorac), acne. |
| Trifarotene 0.005% | RAR-γ | Truncal + facial acne (Aklief). |
| Topical isotretinoin 0.05% | Pan-RAR | Acne (Isotrex, Isotrexin); UK availability limited. |
Indications
- Acne vulgaris: cornerstone topical therapy per NICE NG198.
- Plaque psoriasis: tazarotene; localised plaques.
- Photoaging: tretinoin for fine lines, lentigines, texture; over months-years.
- Actinic keratosis / field cancerisation: tretinoin / adapalene as adjunct; less robust evidence than 5-FU / imiquimod / MAL-PDT / tirbanibulin.
- Hyperpigmentation: melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; triple combination (tretinoin + hydroquinone + fluocinolone).
- Verrucae: adjunct.
- Off-label: lentigo maligna adjunct, post-Mohs scarring, EGFRi / chemotherapy hand-foot care, paediatric ichthyosis.
Safety considerations
- Local effects ("retinoid dermatitis"):
- Erythema, scaling, dryness, burning, stinging — peak weeks 2-4.
- "Retinoid reaction" expected and usually self-limits with continued use; ramp-up regimens reduce.
- Photosensitivity → use at night; daily SPF 30-50.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in Fitzpatrick III-VI.
- Pregnancy: contraindicated (Category C/D). Reliable contraception required throughout treatment.
- Breastfeeding: avoid; minimal systemic absorption but precaution.
- Combination:
- Benzoyl peroxide may oxidise tretinoin — use sequentially (BPO morning, tretinoin night) or use micronised formulations (Epiduo: adapalene + BPO).
- Avoid alpha-hydroxy acids in same application.
- Caution combining with topical 5-FU or imiquimod — additive irritation.
- Counsel: gradual introduction (alternate nights); minimise amount (pea-size); avoid eyes / mucosa; allow 2-3 months for acne / 6+ months for photoaging benefit.
Practical use
- Start with low concentration; alternate nights → nightly use as tolerated.
- Apply at bedtime to dry skin; pea-size for whole face.
- Daily SPF 30-50 mineral sunscreen mandatory.
- Counsel on retinoid reaction (transient flare in week 2-4; do not stop).
- Pregnancy avoidance crucial; document discussion.
- Combine with bland emollient if dryness; transition to micronised formulations if intolerant.
- Field cancerisation: tretinoin nightly for months as maintenance after 5-FU / imiquimod / MAL-PDT clearance; adjunctive — not standalone.
- Counsel about avoiding waxing, dermabrasion, peels, laser during retinoid use.
References
- Roos TC, Jugert FK, Merk HF, Bickers DR. Retinoid metabolism in the skin. Pharmacol Rev. 1998;50:315-333.
- Kang S. The mechanism of action of topical retinoids. Cutis. 2005;75(2 Suppl):10-13.
- Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1:327-348.
- NICE NG198. Acne vulgaris: management. London: NICE; 2021 (last updated 30 April 2026).
- Tan J et al. Adapalene and benzoyl peroxide combination gel in the treatment of acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2018;78:1056-1063.
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